Hair Loss or Normal Shedding?

Q: (client)

My hair doesn’t grow. It stays at the same length and is always shedding. I have used all types of hair growth products and I take really good care of my hair but, it doesn’t grow. What should I do?

A: (The Beauty Chemist)

Have you notice how dogs and cats shed? Well, most mammals shed their hairs and human beings also fall under that category. Many people mistake their hair shedding with their hair falling out, but this may not always be the case. As individuals, what is normal hair shed for one person may not be for another. Human hair sheds an average of 50 - 150 strands per day. Each person may averages 100,000 to 150,000 strands of hair on their head. And the average growth cycle for hair is 2-5 years, for some, it’s to 2-7 years depending on ethnicity and genetics.

Each individual hair strand emerges from a hair follicle attached to a hair bulb. The hair follicle is where the hair protein is keratinized (hardens) to produce hair. Each hair follicle has a life cycle independent to all other hair follicles on the scalp, that life cycle has three phases; the anagen, catagen and telogen phase. Anagen phase is the growth phase which last 2-5 years sometime up to 7 years as previously mentioned. The catagen phase signals the end of the growth phase and it last 2-3 weeks. The telogen phase is the resting phase, lasting about 2-4 months, this is when the follicle shrinks the hair detaches from the hair bulb. This process is the shedding phenomenon. All three phases occur simultaneously throughout the scalp. For example, one strand of hair maybe in the anagen phase while the one next to it is in the telogen phase. This is why near the roots area of your hair; you will find shorter hairs which are just emerging from the scalp and at the begining of the anagen phase.

 On average, 85% of the hair on your head will be in the anagen phase; this is where you get your length from. For example, the average hair growth rate is half an inch per month, which is 6 inches a year. Some people will experience faster or slower rates throughout their lives. If your hair grows in a cycle for 2 years, your longest hair length will be around 12 inches of hair. If your hair grows in a cycle for 5 years then you will have about 30 inches of hair as your longest length. When you reach your maximum length, you may notice few strands that may exceed by an inch or so, however it will be more evident that your length has plateaued. As a result, it will seem like you have stringy hair ends and in need of a hair trim.

Now there is a difference in hair shedding and hair falling out. If your hair is shedding abnormally (more than 150 strands a day) then you may have some legit concerns and should talk to a trichologist or dermatologist. A good way to measure your average hair growth rate is to have a licensed cosmetologist take a small section of your hair, about 1-2mm squared parting and process it with an oxidative hair color (opposite of your hair color) that will contrast. This will allow you to visually determine your growth rate as the hair color grows out. You can measure or have your hairstylist measure with a ruler, monthly or bi-monthly. The best area on your scalp to conduct this test is the back region where your dormant hair lies.

In conclusion, your hair does grow!  It just has a growth (anagen) cycle that determines your overall length which is unique to each person.